Jean-Marie Fourrier is a happy example of that rare type of person who has followed his own vision and conquered the world. In his case, the world that he conquered is the rarified one of top-notch Burgundy wine, and today he is indisputably one of the hottest producers in Burgundy, and a “must-taste” for any aspiring connoisseur. This was not always the case, since as recently as 1997 it was not included in the otherwise meritorious survey Côte d’Or by Clive Coates. The domaine was founded in 1930 by Fernand Pernot, remembered by Anthony Hanson in his 1982 book Burgundy as “an amiable old bear”, noting “Today wine is now made by the next generation,” by which he meant Jean-Claude Fourrier, nephew to Père Pernot, who had taken over in 1969. Jean-Claude had begun to work at the domaine in 1961 at the tender age of 14, after a winery accident claimed the life of his father.
As will happen with time, Jean-Claude eventually ceded control to the next generation, his son Jean-Marie, who took over from his father in 1994 at the age of 23. At the time of Anthony Hanson’s book, the domaine bottled only 50% of its production under its own label, and much of the Gevrey was blended together to make a limited range of cuvées. When Jean-Marie took over, he began to change some things slowly while leaving others as they were. One tradition worth maintaining was the respect for the vineyards that had always been there. Some of them had been mature even when the domaine was founded in the depths of the Great Depression—parts of the holding in Griotte-Chambertin was planted in 1902, and part of the Clos Saint-Jacques was planted in 1910, and these have never been replanted. When a vine needs replacement, cuttings are taken from the old vines (a process known as sélection massale) so the vineyards remain true to the original flavors and not to those found in the productive, disease-resistant clones available in nurseries today. The average age across the nine hectares (ha) owned by Fourrier is 50 – 70 years, and no fruit is used in the domaine bottlings unless comes from vines of a minimum age of 30 years.
Jean-Marie famously returned to the domaine after apprenticeships with Henri Jayer (during the production of his legendary 1988 vintage) and Domaine Drouhin in Oregon, but rather than following blindly the precepts of his mentors, he has chosen the techniques that work best for himself. He bottles by hand, as Henri Jayer did, but he uses only 20% new oak casks for aging the wine, a far cry from the 100% favored by M. Jayer. There is a legend, in fact, that when Robert Parker advised him to increase the percentage of new oak casks in the mid-‘90s that he was politely shown to the door. According to Jean-Marie, most of the work is done in the vineyard. He has completely ceased the use of fertilizers and chemical weed-killers, and treats the vines with an absolute minimum of intervention for rot and mildew in order to limit the influence of chemicals on the fruit. He does not make a fetish of low yields, but selectively removes buds at the beginning of the season instead of “green harvesting” to increase concentration.
In fact, he guards at every turn against excessive concentration, while his careful work gives the wines an exceptional purity of fruit and depth of flavor. The grapes are carefully sorted, first in the vineyard by the pickers, and then on vibrating tables in the winery. The stems are gently removed, but little of the harvest is crushed. Instead, the berries are delivered to the fermentation tanks and the ferment is allowed to begin naturally by indigenous yeasts. Forcing a deeper hue through a “cold soak” or prolonged maceration the fruit and the skin is avoided. The wines are manipulated during the process as little as possible. The fermented skins are punched down under the juice during the fermentation, but the wine is not pumped over the top. No sulfur is added until the end of the winemaking, and the purity of the wine is protected instead by reductive handling. The wines are aged with their fine lees without racking, and are bottled, unfined and unfiltered, with a bit of CO2 to help maintain freshness. For this reason, Jean-Marie recommends decanting the young vintages.
The domaine works approximately 9 ha, and Jasper Morris outlines the holdings as follows in his book Inside Burgundy:
Griotte-Chambertin 0.26 ha
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 0.89 ha
Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux Moines 0.87 ha
Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux 0.21 ha
Gevrey-Chambertin Cherbaudes 0.67 ha
Gevrey-Chambertin Goulots 0.34 ha
Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers 0.29 ha
Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Sorbés 0.55 ha
Vougeot Petits Vougeot 0.34 ha
Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echézeaux 0.47 ha
Chambolle-Musigny village 0.39 ha
Gevrey-Chambertin village 3.30 ha
Jasper does not mention separately the holdings in Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Solon, described on their importer’s website as “more than a half-hectare”. The site goes on to detail the rare Bourgogne Blanc and a small amount of Bourgogne Rouge made by blending their 0.38 ha holdings just outside of Gevrey-Chambertin with some fruit purchased from others. In addition there is a small holding in Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers (bottled only in magnum and not every year), and they also describe the source of the Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes as the Champerrier vineyard, near the border with Brochon.
In addition to all of the above, there are the wines that Jean-Marie has begun recently to produce from fruit that he sources from like-minded growers. This has allowed him to expand his range to include Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas, Chambolle-Musigny Aux Echanges, Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses, Clos de Vougeot, Echézeaux, Charmes-Chambertin, Mazoyères-Chambertin, Latricières-Chambertin, Chambertin, and Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze. For the production of these wines, Jean-Marie is buying the grapes (and sometimes having them picked by his own staff) and is not buying juice or finished wine. During our exquisite tasting we were able to taste a range that included both wines from domaine-owned vineyards and purchased fruit throughout a selection of enticing vintages.
2010 Fourrier Bourgogne Blanc
Although Domaine Fourrier has produced a white wine from a mosaic of vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny since 1997, Jean-Marie confided this evening that he made his first “proper white” in 2007. Part of this has to do with his view on premature oxidation and the steps that he takes to prevent it. He has adopted an oxidative handling of the fermenting juice to ensure that this happens in a controlled way before bottling, and not afterwards—he adds no sulfur until the end of the malolactic fermentation. The result is sturdy and rich, and although it is marked by its maturation in cask, it is opening up now with plenty of breadth and an exquisite finish. ***
2015 Fourrier Clos de Vougeot
Domaine Fourrier sources the fruit for its superb Clos de Vougeot from the section of the vineyard known as Petit Monpertuis, next to the section called Musigni that appropriately abuts Musigny grand cru. In spite of its youth, the 2015 showed particularly well, with a piercingly lovely cherry fruit on the attack that opens with time to show a dense mass of smoky complexity. The wine is rich and full bodied, with plenty of grip and the density to age for the long haul. *****
2014 Fourrier Clos de Vougeot
The 2014 Clos de Vougeot was an intriguing wine, if perhaps showing a bit less overt sex appeal than the 2015. The wine had notes of mineral, earth and fresh saddle leather, but less of the exuberant cherry fruit. The tannins were more pronounced and the texture a bit more massive. While it has a considerable future ahead of it, there is less flash and sparkle here. ****
2013 Fourrier Clos de Vougeot
True to the vintage, the 2013 Clos de Vougeot showed a lighter, more perfumed fruit character with an edge of violets on the nose. On the palate the wine had pleasant freshness and vibrancy but less generosity than either the 2014 or 2015. This is a wine that will mature earlier than either the 2014 or 2015, and will provide much pleasure as one waits for these other two wines to mature. ***
2015 Fourrier Echézeaux Vieilles Vignes
The 2015 Echézeaux Vieilles Vignes is a blockbuster of a wine, with a super-ripe cassis fruit and floral aromas on the nose colored with hints of smoke and a depth of fruit that almost suggests dark chocolate. On the palate the wine is velvety soft and approachable but still full-bodied and structured. Superb. *****
2014 Fourrier Echézeaux Vieilles Vignes
Robust, savory, and surprisingly forward, the 2014 Echézeaux shares a similar floral element on the nose. Slightly more reticent than the 2015, this is a brooding wine that requires some time to unlock the depths of fruit, although rich plum and cocoa notes emerge on the palate to enliven the lingering finish. This is a wine that will last for decades. ****
2013 Fourrier Echézeaux Vieilles Vignes
A departure from the two later vintages, the 2013 Echézeaux is almost crisp. Classic in structure there is a lighter color and a pronounced floral note on the nose. The texture is lively and bright, but this is a wine for much earlier drinking than the two later vinges. ***
2015 Fourrier Chambertin Clos de Bèze
Intense and concentrated, the 2015 Clos de Bèze struck me with its spicy and expressive character. The black cherry fruit was more accessible here than elsewhere. It left and almost weightless impression on the palate, yet the wine was still extremely long on the palate, with new flavors that opened up only with time in the glass. *****
2014 Fourrier Chambertin Clos de Bèze
Floral notes dominate here and there is an intriguing note of licorice on the nose. The texture is fresh, clean and silky, but as with the 2015 it is deceptively light, since the persistent aromas and flavors again surprise with their complexity and depth. ****
2013 Fourrier Chambertin Clos de Bèze
The 2013 Clos de Bèze is cut from the same cloth as the 2014, with aromas of spice and fresh violets on the initial attack. The texture as with many wines from 2013 is fresh and somewhat lighter, but the wine has a superb balance and an approachable nature that indicate drinking over the next 5 – 7 years. ***
2015 Fourrier Chambertin
Absolutely lovely. The ’15 Chambertin is surprisingly expressive and very forward, with a bright cherry fruit on the attack followed quickly by a suggestion of roses and a hint of mineral. The wine is exuberantly delicious now, but there is substance here as well, and it should age for decades to come. A monumental wine from a fabulous vintage. *****
2014 Fourrier Chambertin
Savory and saline, the 2014 Chambertin puts the emphasis on spice rather than on cherry fruit, but with time a rich, plummy character, somewhat darker in hue than the ’15, begins to emerge. The wine is solid and substantial with plenty of structure and a dense, meaty texture. As with the ’15, this is a wine that will age for the long term. Marvelous, complex, and impressively long on the finish. ****
2013 Fourrier Chambertin
Ripe and expressive, with a bright cherry character to the fruit and the floral notes so characteristic of this vintage. However, while some 2013s come off as lighter and not as substantial, here the tension is put to good use to drive the lovely fruit character to a very long, fresh finish. One of the best 2013s I have had, this should open relatively young but can last at least a decade in my view. ****
2010 Fourrier Morey-St.-Denis Clos Sorbés Vieilles Vignes
From his old vine parcel of slightly more than a half hectare in the Morey-St.-Denis premier cru Clos Sorbés, Jean-Marie produced this marvelous 2010. The vintage was characterized by yields reduced by poor weather at flowering and by moderate temperatures and cool nights through ripening, giving wines of great freshness and focus. Here the cherry fruit is bright and structured, with expressive notes of black cherry colored with earthy notes, and a firm, tannic structure that carries the wine well. ***
2010 Fourrier Vougeot Les Petits Vougeot
Domaine Fourrier is the proprietor of a third of a hectare in the fairly rare premier cru Les Petits Vougeot that lies just downslope from Musigny and just north of the Clos de Vougeot. The 2010 vintage here produced a lovely red fruit-scented wine with a silky texture and a bit more generosity than the Clos Sorbés. Although it is showing well, it can age easily another ten years. ***
2009 Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers
Located in the midst of Chambolle’s premiers crus, Les Gruenchers is located downslope and across the street from Les Fuées and directly east from the small vineyard of Derrière la Grange, where Fourrier has just over a quarter hectare. The 2009 is particularly impressive. While it has the typical Chambolle elegance, there is no lack of fruit here and a spicy, silky quality on the palate that is alluring and is not likely to fade quickly with time. ****
2009 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux
The premier cru Champeaux is located at the northern end of the village of Gevrey, on the border with Les Evocelles which lies in Brochon and bordered by Combe aux Moines, Petits Cazetiers and Les Goulots. This makes the terroir fairly cool, and even in 2009, it gave a wine that was deceivingly light at first. However, with time in the glass over dinner this opened up into a magnificent, almost animal nose, with savory black fruit character and a strong floral cast. There is at a minimum another decade here – your patience will be
2009 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux Moines
Across the street from Champeaux and bordering on Cazetiers, the Combe aux Moines is another cool terroir that here has given a wine with a bright, high-toned cherry fruit. In comparison with Les Champeaux it is not as forward and a bit more structured, yet it remains accessible and shows an extraordinary balance throughout the lingering, slightly saline finish. Lovely. ****
2007 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques
The premier cru vineyard Clos Saint-Jacques has a long and illustrious history, and many Burgundy experts suggest that the terroir should have been classified as Grand Cru. While historical classifications of the region do not necessarily support this view, it is certain that in the marketplace the wines command a premium. Well into the 20th century the vineyard was under the sole proprietorship of the Comte de Moucheron, who had consolidated the holdings of his wife to achieve this status in 1949. Upon his death, however, the widow sold the vineyard and the property was split among four domaines: Fourrier, Armand Rousseau, Esmonin and Clair-Dau. Each owner has a portion that runs from the top of the slope to the bottom, giving them a complete representation of the terroir. Fourrier owns 0.89 ha, Rousseau 2.2 ha and Sylvie Esmonin 1.6 ha. The 2 ha portion belonging to Domaine Clair-Dau was divided in half at the dissolution of that estate in 1985 and is now shared between Louis Jadot and Domaine Bruno Clair. The vineyard is located behind the village and between the premiers crus Lavaux Saint-Jacques and Les Cazetiers. It is on the other side of the valley, however, from the main swath of grands crus in Gevrey and has a very different exposition. Regardless of these differences, the vineyard produces exceptional wines in nearly every vintage, and the portion belonging to Fourrier is special indeed, with portions having been planted as long ago as 1910. 2007 is often noted as a lighter vintage, but this particular example is intensely concentrated, with notes of black licorice, truffle, plum, and a saline edge. On the palate the wine is beginning to soften and open, revealing its depth and complexity. This is drinking at its peak but it will certainly last another decade at this stage. ****
1999 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques
Oddly, the 1999 Clos Saint-Jacques seemed perhaps more youthful than the 2007. 1999 was another famously sunny year, and here it gave superb ripeness to the wine, with blackberry and plum fruit underlined with notes of earth, smoke and leather. The developed aromas of forest floor and truffle are barely showing here, just a super-intense concentration of flavor and body that is still firm and substantial. Just shy of twenty years of age this is only now coming into its own, and it will drink easily for at least another twenty. Superb. *****
2010 Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin
Fourrier owns just over a quarter hectare of Grand Cru Griotte-Chambertin. This smallest of the grands crus in Gevrey Chambertin is on the “wrong” side of the Route des Grands Crus, across from the Clos de Bèze and between Chapelle Chambertin and Charmes Chambertin. Although sometimes discounted, it produces a famously “charming” wine, elegant and harmonious. The 2010 from Fourrier was a wonderful example of this, with a perfect balance between intensity of fruit and silkiness on the palate. The cool nature of the year gives it enough backbone to achieve a perfect balance. *****
2002 Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin
The 2002 Griotte-Chambertin is now open ready to drink, yet the wine has enough red and black berry fruit character and smoky, leathery nuance to go the distance. This is a lovely expressive wine with some of the nerve of the 2010s and some of the silky, lush fruit of the 2009s. A vintage that is too often overlooked, this is in a perfect place now but will last at least another decade. *****
2005 Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin
Fairly primary with its ripe black cherry fruit character and scents of violets and roses, this is a compellingly seductive wine with a perfect equilibrium between that ripe, primary fruit, impressive depth of flavor and rich, dense texture on the palate. It is only now beginning to open up, and should enjoy a life of at least another twenty years. *****
1985 Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin
As is the case with many of the ‘85s, Fourrier’s ’85 Griotte-Chambertin is an almost impossibly beautiful wine. It is fully open and showing all its treasure, yet it is still fresh and seemingly youthful more than thirty years later. The texture is lush and velvety and on the finish the developed aromas of black truffle, ground coffee, and forest floor are just now beginning to dawn. Although this is probably drinking at its peak now, it should hold here for at least another decade. Truly monumental wine. *****